Quick intro.
2nd week of last December (2007 for those of you who are already lost). Julie and I headed for a week in Thailand : on schedule was Bangkok, Ayuthaya and eventually elsewhere. Why would we go to Thailand ? First of all, we've never been there - except at the airport - secondly, Julie had some shopping to do and so did I after all and finally it's not far, not in Vietnam and "supposably" modern.
We flew Bangkok Airways, which had correct services, agreeable staff and proper planes. Very correct for the price. The new Bangkok Airport is quite a piece ; very impressive and nicely decorated with concrete. From that point, it's all a Bangkok story...
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First contact with Bangkok
We arrived in the evening, you may consider it night. We had listen to some guys we met in the plane or at the airport and we went along with them, to the bus. We didn't know the price was almost the same as a taxi, but the jams came free of charge anyway (buses take the highway only for a half of the trip - to stop at Bangkok's eastern bus station).
Anyway we managed to reach the Swiss Park hotel in Sukhumvit/Soi 11. A pretty old hotel, not very cheap (1'900 Bahts - ~ 60 US$) but actual quite good : clean and agreeable. We took a stroll in the neighborhood and discovered the contrast between the modernity of the infrastructures (airport, skytrain, highways, ...) and the actual life in the city.
There was a bunch of restaurants of all size and quality around the hotel, including a whole range of american fast/junk-food. We're definitely not home anymore...!
On the road to Ayutthaya
The day after we headed straight to the train station. Oh wow, it is very convenient as the subway goes directly there, the staff is very helpful and tickets are awfully cheap. One the first way either we got lucky but the train was clean and almost empty. The way back was another story : half of the people had to stand... and pay an extra charge !
Taking the train allows you to understand how huge is actually Bangkok and its surburbs. Going for about one hour until Ayutthaya. Several people told us : "you crazy to take the train, take the bus, much faster". We had time... and we always try to avoid the roads (Julie because she hates and I because nobody can drive almost properly in South-East Asia).
We did not book any accommodation in Ayutthaya, and trusted the tuk-tuk driver who brought us to a correct guest-house. Even though, we still dis-recommend to follow strangers, even they look nice. Rooms were ok for 500 Bahts so we stayed 3 nights.
Ayutthaya itself
Ayutthaya is a tiny city. The center part is surrounded by a river which on a map make the city looks like an island. It has a very long story in the Thai Empires ; being on of its capitals during a certain period. Even if most of the temples are heavily damaged, the remaining ones show something interesting. We had the chance to have a not-to-hot weather but between 11.00am and 5.00pm we still had to find something else to do. Like napping.
Between two visits, we soon found out the place has not much to show apart its temples. There are two markets, the main one is big, kind of dirty but still authentic (even if McDonalds' is right in front). The second one is a night market, a lot of food booth, mostly Muslim dishes which are good lucking. We've tried a couple of course with more or less chance
Many temples recalls the Angkor's architecture. Of course they are not a contestant to Angkor Wat or Ta Phrom. But unlkike in Cambodia, the tourism in these temples were more relaxing. It was not crowded, affordable tickets and less 'mendicity'. Ayutthaya does not have the jungle bit of Angkor but still deserve a visit if you like old stones, eastern religions and are around.
Finally, heading back to Bangkok. We did not have a hotel for this day... And ours was full until the day after. We had to fight with the payphone machine then with the different hotels' reception to find a room. All full except one...
Back to Bangkok
All public transportation and crowded public places (except buses maybe ...?) are well equipped in security : luggage check, security officers, cameras, etc. It makes you feel safe and if you get lost or do not know where to pass your 30kg bags, they become very helpful.
Bangkok being famous for its jams, avoid the taxis !
Julie staying around the hotel, I went by myself to visit some of the Bangkok's highlights : Wat *
* : put whatever word that sounds Thai, their are enough temples to fill a dictionary
I travelled there by Skytrain then by boat ; which gave me the chance to pass along the luxury hotels of the riverside and - surprise ! - the French Embassy. For once we're not kidding on the representation but it could be seen as ostentatious.
The Buddha above is truly a masterpiece. By its size ; it can be found near the Grand Palace and its 15m high are truly impressive.
In Wat Arnun you can find smaller version. All the temples have something unique which differentiates them. However, I cannot tell if it is a touristic evolution or a natural 'setup'
Beginning of December is also the period of the King's birthday. We are quite use to the pictures of Ho Chi Minh everywhere in Vietnam but we supposed it was a communist or non-democratic thing. In Thailand you cannot miss the King, most of the time associated with the Thai flag, proudly flying around. After a few questions asked and some Lonely Planet trust, we found out, Thai loves their king for his participation in many charity events and projects. We did not take picture of one of the shrine all around the city, to avoid being seen as disrespectful (we never know that kind of things).
Whether you like it or not, Bangkok is a city to be seen. It is not a beautiful city, nor a quiet place but it has its sights (temples above). At night it becomes something else, like elsewhere. We have been very disappointed by the pseudo sexy/bitchy shows around Patpong and Soi Cowboy. We understand there are probably no other place like this in Asia but in Europe you see much funnier and cool sexy stuff than there.
Bangkok is also shopping city. Far more choice than in Vietnam, for far cheaper and more accessible than in Singapore or Hong Kong. We've spent hours and hours around Siam Square, Siam Center, Siam Paragon, ........... Too many of these !
One of them - Siam Paragon - features a 'huge' aquarium. Along seeing many kinds of fishes and other swimming friends (such as penguins)there are a few activities included in the ticket : cinema IMAX-like, glass-bottomed boat over the sharks, free Pepsi (marketing is omnipresent in Thailand), and the forced passage in the shop (that's where we tried those hats).
The featured exhibition this time was animals coming from the deepest sees of the world. Such as a giantsquid, a huge red tuna and a few dozens of horrible looking fishes. Quite fascinating indeed. How disappointed to see their were all deads - some in clear ice - ; after a thought it makes sense though.
Last sight before heading back home : the Restaurant "Condoms & Cabbages", where the above picture was taken. The name sound funny, we did find the condoms but no cabbages around. We didn't imagine it was possible to make Christmas trees out of these rubber thingies - dedicated to human protection usually. Yes, for those who are wondering, the check came with a few. (We canot see it here but the table we had was decorated with condoms between the table and the glass...!)
Foreword/Conclusion
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